THE OSCHOLARS LIBRARY

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White Symphonies with Red Spots: Colour and the Representation of Women in Four Poems by Oscar Wilde

 

Anja Müller

 

[This is the republication of the preprint of an article whose final and definitive form has been published in Women’s Studies 32 : 7 October-November 2003©2003 Copyright Taylor & Francis; Women’s Studies is available online at www.informaworld.com.  THE OSCHOLARS thanks Dr Müller for kindly making this version available to us, and to Taylor & Francis for their co-operation.]

 

I.

Given the abundance of colour terms in Oscar Wilde’s poems (a first collection was published in 1881), the number of critical studies on the intermedial[1] allusions to painting in general or to colour in particular in these poems is surprisingly small. Apart from discussions within the scope of comprehensive monographs on Wilde’s work (see, for example, Kohl), the two articles by Plett and Wagner are the only recent studies which address the relationship of word and image in Wilde’s poetry. Further articles by Borelius, Eichbaum and Fehr are of a fairly early date. The latter three critics share a biographical approach as they attempt to discover the sources of some of Wilde’s poems in impressionist painting; most notably that of James McNeill Whistler, whose personal relationship with Wilde provides the basis for their argument.[2] Representing Wilde as a derivative artist they unanimously disclaim his endeavour to emulate Whistler’s art and aesthetics as by far inferior to the original. With regard to word and image relations, all three focus on the paragone of visual and verbal art, reading Wilde’s poetry as an unsuccessful struggle to translate Whistler’s painting into words – unsuccessful mainly for Wilde’s own lack of originality. Although opinions differ as far as the painterly models for the respective poems are concerned, neither Borelius, nor Eichbaum nor Fehr doubt that painting can be translated into poetry; Fehr even classifies different modes of such an intermedial translation (172ff). He thus theoreticizes the paragone in a prescriptive manner, supporting Wilde’s view of poetry as the supreme art while discarding Wilde’s own – in Fehr’s opinion failed – attempts in the same breath. In each case, the visual model itself remains unchallenged, whereas the poems which try to transport Whistler’s idea of pure aesthetic form and material are considered to be, in effect, defective copies of a superior original.

 

Plett’s article adds a new perspective insofar as he focuses on the translation of the more general categories of aesthetic perception and configuration instead of individual paintings. He tries to evade a hierarchy of word and image by emphasizing the idiosyncrasies of each medium in its own right; nevertheless, he also remains within the translational paradigm of ut pictura poesis, even if the translated elements are now abstract categories and the process is more loosely described as a transformation.[3] In his concluding paragraph, Plett argues that Wilde’s works are problematic because of their ‘didactic heresy’, i.e. because, despite their professed aesthetic ideal, they do not refrain from moralizing. Since the verbal medium includes a message underneath, he suggests, it can never be a mere surface like a painting, hence it can never achieve the aestheticist ideal of pure l’art pour l’art (227).

 

The problem underlying the paragone thus seems to be one of transforming a non-discursive art (painting) into a discursive one (poetry). But what if painting is not at all non-discursive, but always already full of virtual discourse as Jacques Derrida suggests (cf. Brunette/Wills 13)? What if colour is not merely decorative, material, superficial, but can be described semiotically and/or as a cultural construct (cf. Melville 44)?[4] This tentative discursive character of the visual is the pivot of Peter Wagner’s reading of ‘Impression du Matin’ which goes beyond the scope of the articles mentioned before. Applying Foucauldian discourse analysis in an ‘archeological attempt to uncover ways of seeing, understanding, and representing as embedded in Victorian art and literature’ (281), Wagner scrutinizes modes of looking and the ambiguity of colours. In his approach, painting ceases to be a holistic model to Wilde’s poems, instead it is treated as a knot of intersecting discourses. It is by no means incidental that such an analysis does not eclipse the more unsettling issues of the poem, such as the representation of women and its underlying discourse of sexuality.[5]

 

My article sets out to explore further the area mapped out by Wagner. For this purpose, I will look more closely at the representation of women in order to ask how this representation is underscored by a culturally encoded framework of colours, especially white and red. This particular set is, admittedly, cliché ridden[6] and may appear, at least at first sight, banal. My major concern, however, is less with the symbolic value of the colours as such[7] than with their strategic function. In the four poems to be discussed, these colours, together with the representation of women, occur at the intersection of two discourses – one on sexuality and gender or, in other words, one on the body with its alleged depth and sexuality buried inside, the other one on art, that is deemed most perfect when it is a mere surface consisting of design, form and colour. The question at stake is, therefore, how the particular distribution of the colours white and red in connection with the representation of women forms part of a strategy that enables one to connect both discourses as transformations of each other.

 

II.

Le Panneau

 

Under the rose-tree’s dancing shade

There stands a little ivory girl,

Pulling the leaves of pink and pearl

With pale green nails of polished jade.

 

The red leaves fall upon the mould,

The white leaves flutter, one by one,

Down to a blue bowl where the sun,

Like a great dragon, writhes in gold.

 

The white leaves float upon the air,

The red leaves flutter idly down,

Some fall upon her yellow gown,

And some upon her raven hair.

 

She takes an amber lute and sings,

And as she sings a silver crane

Begins his scarlet neck to strain,

And flap his burnished metal wings.

 

She takes a lute of amber bright,

And from the thicket where he lies

Her lover, with his almond eyes,

Watches her movements in delight.

 

And now she gives a cry of fear,

And tiny tears begin to start;

A thorn has wounded with its dart

The pink-veined sea-shell of her ear.

 

And now she laughs a merry note:

There has fallen a petal of the rose

Just where the yellow satin shows

The blue-veined flower of her throat.

 

With pale green nails of polished jade,

Pulling the leaves of pink and pearl,

There stands a little ivory girl

Under the rose-tree’s dancing shade.

 

‘Le Panneau’ was first published in The Lady’s Pictorial in 1887, together with ‘Les Ballons’ as one of two Fantaisies décoratives. The title can be read as a marked allusion relating the poem to Japanese painted screens. This decorative art form had been popularized in Britain in the wake of the London world exhibition in 1862 which triggered a Japanese vogue in the United Kingdom as well as on the Continent. A manuscript version of Wilde’s poem with the title ‘Impression Japonaise’[8] is even more explicit. Whereas it seems very likely that the abundance of colour terms in the poem owes something to Japanese art, it is doubtful whether such an allusion simultaneously juxtaposes this poem with others whose monochromatic palette is deemed to have been inspired by Whistler. If one insists on the personal relationship between Wilde and Whistler, one ought to remember that Whistler, too, rode the Japanese wave; in fact, he produced a number of colourful paintings which belie the stereotypical verdict that his work is largely monochromatic. Whether ‘Le panneau’ actually refers to Whistler or no, identifying the alleged source of ‘Le Panneau’ interests me by far less than the implications of such an allusion.

 

Fehr and Eichbaum conclude that the poem, in translating Japanese decorative art, becomes itself a specimen of such an art form, and that its figures, above all the girl, are therefore merely decorative, too (see, for instance, Eichbaum, ‘Die impressionistischen Frühgedichte’ 403ff). To interpret the wide range of colour terms in the poem as indicating a decorative character and preciousness corresponds to Ruskin’s aesthetic judgement that colour is the most abstract quality of an object, and that ‘all the ‘purest, most innocent, and most precious’ things [are] brightly coloured’ (cf. ‘Of Turnerian Light’, qtd. in Smith 1-2). References to metals or precious materials, as well as the use of Japanese paraphernalia (e.g. crane, almond eyes, dragon) intensify the impression of artificiality.[9] In what follows, I will investigate whether the poem is indeed merely decorative and the girl an artificial puppet, or whether there may be something lurking beneath this polished and bright surface.

 

The colour terms in ‘Le panneau’ span a large scale of hues derived from the colours white, yellow, red, blue, green and black. Most of these hues also denote a metal or other precious materials (e.g. ivory, silver, pearl, burnished metal, jade, amber, gold), thus creating a notion of preciousness and delicacy. Whereas colour is thus poured, as it were, over the landscape in the poem and the rose tree in its midst, the greatest variety of colours is used with reference to the girl. Such an abundance is not only typical of (would-be) Japanese art, it is also one of the idiosyncrasies of Pre-Raphaelite paintings and of their representations of highly sexualised women.[10] Since this connection resulted in a sexualization of colour in nineteenth-century art history and practice, the use of colour in the representation of women became a problematic site where aesthetic criticism, moral discourse and discourses on sexuality intersected. ‘Le Panneau’ (and, as will be shown, the other poems to be discussed here) is located precisely at this crossing. How, then, does this sensuality of colour surface in Wilde’s ‘merely decorative’ poems?

 

In order to pursue this question, let us have a look at the neat form of the piece: The eight stanzas of ‘Le Panneau’ are composed in iambic tetrameter with some trochaic inversions (for example in lines 1, 2 or 8), and with an envelope rhyme scheme. This envelope pattern is structurally doubled by the verse palindrome created by stanzas one and eight.[11] The inverted sequence of lines in the first and last stanzas establishes a kind of frame which further adds to the ‘pictorial’ character of the poem. Eichbaum argues that this frame produces an impression of circularity supporting the ornamental character of the poem, and contrasting it with realistic, imitative art forms (‘Die impressionistischen Frühgedichte’ 404). However, if one considers some of the functions of a picture frame, one can as well argue that Wilde’s poetic framing technique in ‘Le Panneau’ fulfils the very work of a frame in realistic painting, because it zooms the reader into the poem and out again, as the verses gradually move from a general perspective to increasingly detailed aspects – from the tree, to the girl, to her hands, to her fingernails, and back again.[12] The variety of colour terms helps to intensify the gradual focus on greater detail. The effect of this polychromatic close-up is to create a certain contrast to more monochromatic poems that rather use a panoramic or a bird’s eye perspective (for example, in Wilde’s ‘Impression du Matin’, or ‘Symphony in Yellow’) – and that are customarily aligned with impressionist painting, especially Whistler’s.

 

The body of the poem can be divided into three pairs of stanzas, each focussing on a different aspect of the picture, thus guiding the reader’s gaze in an ekphrasis across the screen.[13] In each pair, further framing devices can be discerned. In stanzas two and three, for instance, the focus on the white petals is framed by another focus on the red ones, juxtaposing red and white as contrasting colours. The red petals flutter idly until they touch the girl’s dress and hair, whereas the white petals float, almost aloof, in a slow downward movement without ever coming into contact with the girl’s body. Such a distribution recalls a morally encoded colour symbolism which contrasts pure virginal whiteness with sensual, sexual, bodily redness. However, it also seems as if both colours cannot exist without each other, because it is eventually the view of the red petals which provides the frame for the focus on the white ones.

 

Stanzas four and five bring the viewer’s[14] eye to a temporal halt by a parallel repetition of their first lines. At this moment in the very centre of the poem, the process of looking itself is foregrounded. First, the eye is guided from the girl to the crane, attention is then drawn to the hidden lover, who serves as a focalizer re-turning the gaze to the girl. Looking is thus intensified, the gaze is doubled by the internal focalizer – and the viewer is suddenly in trouble: On the one hand, he may now allow himself to be completely absorbed into the picture, and, consequently, his desire can be aroused. Apart from desire, however, this particular focalization strategy creates an awareness of looking, which – according to Mieke Bal or Norman Bryson – interferes with our being drawn in and evokes the self-conscious glance rather than the gaze.[15] Quite remarkably, colour suddenly makes itself scarce at the very moment when looking is staged in the middle of the poem, as if to support the glance and to fend off curiosity. At this central moment in the poem, therefore, the gaze and the glance co-exist in an unresolved tension.

 

Although this moment is very brief, the harmonious scene remains somehow disturbed afterwards. In the following two stanzas, the girl’s painful outcry disrupts the idyll of the gaze with a disharmonious sound – another defensive reaction against the gaze and against desire in the very moment when they threaten to penetrate the surface of the girl(‘s skin)? The ensuing laughter has some reconciliatory quality, for this time, the zoom on the girl exposes her skin, but leaves it unscathed. The last stanza, finally, offers a retreat out of the painting; the palindrome helps the reader to withdraw from a stimulating but dangerous proximity to a safe distance which enables him once more to take in the poetic picture as a whole – and as a decorative piece of art.

 

The multiple layers of internal and external frames in ‘Le Panneau’ indeed fulfil, as Eichbaum suggested, to a great extent the functions of a frame in realistic painting: drawing the viewer into the painting while obliterating itself at the same time, it invites the gaze and voyeurism. On the other hand, its presence also establishes the awareness of looking.[16] As for colours, the wide-ranging palette of hues creates proximity between the objects to be looked at and the perceiver – with one exception: white. If the ‘ivory girl’ also belongs to this realm of whiteness, the colour suggests her aloofness and the girl is therefore to be looked at from a distance. Since looking can create desire and thus the trespassing of distances, the poem also indicates the danger inherent in the gaze. The girl, who is placed in the centre of this intersection of looks and colours, far from being merely decorative and harmless, comes to incorporate this dangerous potential. Even as a girl, she is not innocent but represented with a natural affinity to transgression: she is touched by the red petals, she is not devoid of feeling, and if one dares to come close enough, one can see the blood in her veins shimmering through her delicate, translucent skin.

 

For all these dangers lurking beneath the girl’s surface, the poem needs to employ defence strategies to make representation less dangerous – and I would argue that the much-deplored conventionalism of the poem is nothing but part of this strategy.[17] The decorative elements do not constitute the character of the girl as Eichbaum suggests, but are representational attributes that render the girl artificial in order to keep her representation under control – perhaps the critics who emphasize the decorative character of the poem have paid less attention to the power behind/beyond this decoration. The girl’s body is subjected to a similar treatment: synecdochal representation dissects the body into fetishized parts, such as hands, hair, earlobes, throat and translucent skin.[18] If the girl’s body is depicted as a mere surface phenomenon, it is equally essential that this surface remain unspoiled in order not to release the danger underneath. A safe way to escape this danger is to look at the girl from a distance as if it were a piece of art. Both framing technique and colour terminology support such an attitude in ‘Le Panneau’. The decorative character of the poem is thus not simply an imitation or a translation of a particular painting style, it is part of an encompassing strategy, a discourse of sexuality which informs the poem as well as the respective paintings – and their representations of women.[19]

 

III.

In the Gold Room

A Harmony

 

Her ivory hands on the ivory keys

Strayed in a fitful fantasy,

Like the silver gleam when the poplar trees

Rustle their pale leaves listlessly,

Or the drifting foam of a restless sea

When the waves show their teeth in the flying breeze.

 

Her gold hair fell on the wall of gold

Like the delicate gossamer tangles spun

On the burnished disk of the marigold,

Or the sunflower turning to meet the sun

When the gloom of the jealous night is done,

And the spear of the lily is aureoled.

 

And her sweet red lips on these lips of mine

Burned like the ruby fire set

In the swinging lamp of a crimson shrine,

Or the bleeding wounds of the pomegranate,

Or the heart of the lotus drenched and wet

With the spilt-out blood of the rose-red wine.

 

‘In the Gold Room,’ too, is a ‘colourful’ poem of sorts, with its palette containing different shades of white, gold/yellow and red. These colours structure the three sestets rhyming ababba, with lines of four feet alternating between dactylic and iambic patterns with occasional trochaic inversions. Each stanza develops around one particular impression which is then illustrated with the help of two (in the final stanza three) similes. The increase in similes is matched by a simultaneous increase in colour terms: Whereas the first two stanzas contain five colour items each (either adjectives or nouns with a particular association with colour), their number almost doubles in the last stanza, where red hues and objects abound.[20]

 

Apart from its prominence of colour, ‘In the Gold Room’ shares with ‘Le Panneau’ its representation of a female figure and its possible allusion to painting. Critics who have tried to identify a particular model to the poem unanimously have turned to Whistler, but there is no agreement as to which of his paintings prefigures Wilde’s ‘Gold Room’. In suggesting The Gold Girl: A Harmony in Yellow and Gold, Whistler’s portrait of Connie Gilchrist of 1879, Fehr is probably guided by the title of the painting rather than by its iconography (169). Eichbaum’s and Plett’s proposal, At the Piano (1858-1859), appears to me more likely, if one absolutely insists on finding one particular model for Wilde’s poem. Whistler’s ‘piano picture’ is also structured, almost geometrically, along a colour pattern juxtaposing a woman in black dress playing a black piano while a girl in white is listening to her music; additional horizontal lines in dark green complete the composition. The representation of music is echoed in the first stanza of Wilde’s poem as well as in its subtitle ‘A Harmony,’ but this is already about all the painting and the poem share – at least at first sight.

 

I would argue that the intermedial relations between Whistler’s painting and Wilde’s poem do not consist in a translation of a visual model into a poem. What is far more intriguing to me is how both pieces of art represent a woman in relation to a particular distribution of colour. Much could be said about the black and white female shapes in Whistler’s painting, the choices of dresses, the hair style, the age distinctions, or the nexus between woman and music. The limited scope of this paper, however, forces me to restrict myself to Wilde’s poem.[21] As in ‘Le Panneau,’ the poem deploys conventional tropes and strategies in its representation of a female figure. The individual stanzas are not only marked by characteristic colours, but also by particular body parts towards which the speaker’s attention is drawn: hands, hair and lips. According to Plett, the comparisons neither symbolize the bodily details nor endow them with psychological depth, they merely try to intensify perception with the help of colour analogies. Besides, he finds that the use of colour further distances the woman, embedding her into a web of visual allusions. The effect, so Plett concludes, is one of bodily and spatial artificiality[22] – the woman becomes an ‘icon of aestheticism’ (222). ‘Zurück bleibt eine erinnerte Sequenz von Farbimpressionen – ein polychromes Gedankenportrait aus Weiß, Gold und Rot, hineinversetzt in einen goldenen Raum der Memoria; kein identifizierbares Individuum, wie in Whistlers Portät der Artistin, wohl aber [...] eine ‘Harmonie’, d.h. eine Struktur von Farbimpressionen’ (ibid.)[23].

 

Considering the welter of feminist studies on nineteenth-century paintings of women, most notably in Pre-Raphaelite and fin de siècle art, one’s perception of the poem, however, may differ somewhat from Plett’s account. The bodily details of the individual stanzas can, under such a far-from-innocent scrutiny, be identified as synecdochal fetishes, in that the dissecting look fragments the female body into distinct parts without allowing it to combine into a full, coherent impression. This technique creates an effect similar to the black Victorian dress of Whistler’s woman at the piano, and to the white frock of the girl in the painting, because both eclipse the body, veiling it from sight and thus creating a certain distance to it. A similar distancing device is the use of metatrope[24] which inscribes the woman into a discursive framework. This device is provided by the connection between woman and music on the one hand and the tentative allusion to Whistler’s painting on the other. In the painting, this metatrope is constituted via the musical allusions marked by the piano and the encased musical instruments on the floor.[25] The woman in Wilde’s poem is thus framed in various ways. She is confined within an enclosed space – a golden cage as it were[26] – maybe the ‘gold room’ also owes something to the obtrusive golden frames around Pre-Raphaelite paintings.[27] The similes, linking the artificial interior world of the woman to nature outside, reside within the conventional framework of the nature-culture dichotomy in which woman traditionally is aligned with uncivilized nature. Finally, the metatrope is enhanced by the allusion to music via the piano; both music and painting thus establish a discursive backdrop for the representation of the woman in the ‘Gold Room’.

 

The various framing devices at work all help to create the impression of harmony as suggested in the subtitle. Effective as they are, these strategies nevertheless cannot fully suppress the tension in the poem that is ‘colourfully’ constructed around yet another polarization of whiteness and redness. The first, white stanza portrays a most conventional, idealized female figure: whiteness, music and self-absorption recall the idea of purity, of a highly aestheticized being who is passively exposed to the (male) viewer’s gaze. In view of Bram Dijkstra’s account of what she calls Victorian ‘idols of perversity’ (so the title of her illuminating monograph), it is, however, treacherous to assume mere innocence behind such a representation. Instead, Dijkstra elaborates on the latent eroticism in these representations as witnessed, for example, by Whistler’s white girls, or in the numerous marble-like, statuesque women on the canvases of Albert Moore or Frederic Lord Leighton (70-82). Even whiteness itself, this apparent blank, is not exempt from sexuality and desire. In Wilde’s ‘Gold Room’, desire daringly steps into the foreground, as the second, golden or yellow stanza introduces the hues that were to symbolize decadent aesthetics. Unlike the neat woman in black at Whistler’s Piano, Wilde’s pianist is gradually set loose. Yet as soon as the woman lets down her hair, signifying her growing sexual appetite,[28] the speaker has recourse to traditional tropes – such as woman as a flower, woman merging with the room she inhabits – in order to keep her desire in check.

 

In the final stanza, this control is at least temporarily overcome as the woman encroaches on the speaker’s territory, throwing herself onto the speaker and thus establishing physical and intimate contact by kissing his lips. The speaker, in turn, literally begins to ‘see red’, trying to escape behind a wall of similes, as it were. His phobia is expressed in terms of pain and vulnerability, the similes no longer aestheticize an aloof female body, but come to signify a rupture of harmony, a sudden outbreak of desire, and, ultimately, consummation. What Eichbaum calls a ‘Ton schwüler Erotik’[29] (‘Die impressionistischen Frühgedichte’ 402) is in fact an accumulation of highly explicit, sexually charged colour symbols: the ‘bleeding wounds of the pomegranate’, the ‘heart of lotus drenched and wet’ and the ‘spilt-out blood of the rose-red wine’ do not demand much of the reader’s imagination to be read as symbols of sexual congress and penetration. The last stanza also reveals the strategy that has, if less obviously, already informed the preceding ones. As soon as the gaze excites desire, the focus is shifted from the woman’s body to colourful symbolic projections – a technique that is very similar to the camera pan in mainstream movies when the focus turns away from two lovers to some cliché-ridden visual symbol of passion or sexual consummation; think, for instance, of the odd fireplace...

 

‘In the Gold Room’ thus deploys a strategy of looking and averting the gaze which is similar to that in ‘Le Panneau’ and which is linked with a particular polarization of the colours white and red. Its theme, however, is more unsettling because eroticism and sexuality are on the brink of disrupting the surface and can only be suppressed by a veritable tour de force in conventionality. While the poem basks in traditional tropes and metatrope, it is perhaps even more interesting to examine the critics’ reactions to it, because I would argue that comparable strategies are employed by most critics in order to keep the unsettling erotic subtext at bay. I have already mentioned Plett’s and Eichbaum’s comments; Fehr completely omits the woman’s role, exclusively concentrating on Wilde’s alleged debts to Whistler. Is it coincidence that these critics focus on the structural and decorative elements only, almost desperately seeking to confine and erase the poem’s inherent eroticism? Supporters of the repressive hypothesis concerning Victorian discourses on sexuality may find fuel to their argument here. Plett’s misreading, for instance, exemplifies how the poetic framing devices are transformed into a critical rhetoric. Falling into the trap of the immediacy of the visual sign, Plett refrains from unravelling the visual codes of the poem and the discourses inherent in the painting he supposes to be Wilde’s model. His ekphrastic reading therefore mute-ilates (cf. Wolf 28) not only the painting, but the poem as well. The critics’ attempts to write sexuality out of Wilde’s poem(s) partake in the very same discourse from which these poems have sprung. Conventionality and subjection to discourse is thus not only a matter of literature, but also resides within criticism and determines its writings.

 

IV.

Madonna Mia

 

A lily-girl, not made for this world’s pain,

With brown, soft hair close braided by her ears,

And longing eyes half veiled by slumberous tears

Like bluest water seen through mists of rain:

Pale cheeks whereon no love hath left its stain,

Red underlip drawn in for fear of love,

And white throat, whiter than the silvered dove,

Through whose wan marble creeps one purple vein.

Yet, though my lips shall praise her without cease,

Even to kiss her feet I am not bold,

Being o’ershadowed by the wings of awe,

Like Dante, when he stood with Beatrice

Beneath the flaming Lion’s breast, and saw

The seventh Crystal, and the Stair of Gold.

 

Conventionality also reverberates through ‘Madonna Mia’, a sonnet of almost pure Petrarchan form. The title’s reference to the Virgin Mary inscribes Wilde’s poem into the cultural tradition of Victorian Mariolatry which found its secularized expression in the ideals of female purity and virginity. In the poem, the association of this ideal with the colour white is iconographically rendered in the lily. Dante Gabriel Rossetti’s paintings The Girlhood of Mary Virgin (1849) and Ecce Ancilla Domini! (1850) are perhaps the most impressive visual representations of this iconography. I would argue that Wilde’s ‘lily girl’ not only invokes the virginal type of femininity of Pre-Raphaelite painting (so Cruise 180), but that its intermedial allusion comprises a whole cultural tradition of representing women as madonnas – including the concomitant representational strategies and shifting gender connotations. Idealizing the ‘lily girl’ as a representation of Mary Virgin foregrounds a spirituality to which the girl’s body seems to be an impediment, therefore it appears to be completely obfuscated in the sonnet. Synecdoche cuts the girl’s head off her obliterated body, dissecting it, as it were, into fetishized hair, eyes, cheeks, lips/mouth and throat;[30] cloaked in cliché and dead metaphor, the girl’s body is safely confined (see Michie 86). Unlike the woman in the ‘Gold Room’, however, the girl in ‘Madonna Mia’ remains inside her frame; her hair, for instance, is closely tucked to her head in neat plaids. Her half-slumbering appearance evokes the topos of the collapsing woman, or the many sleeping female figure in nineteenth-century painting, who mingle invalidism, stylish boredom and erotic languor.[31] The second quatrain solidly preserves the ideal of a pure, yet also sterile virginity. The asexual ideal represented in the girl is not defiled, she can therefore resemble a marble statue with a polished, unspoilt surface, i.e. with a fetishized delicate, translucent skin that was also proliferated in the painting of the time.[32]

 

In an excellent article on the shifting significance of the lily in Wilde’s self-fashioning and in his writings, Colin Cruise argues that the iconography of whiteness, epitomized in the lily, is a multi-layered cultural construct which had undergone significant shifts in nineteenth-century visual culture. Rossetti’s two paintings of the Virgin Mary, for instance, borrow ‘a gendered use of the lily from Renaissance depictions of the Annunciation, where the lily is only one of the defining signs of a femininity in a state of change, at the precise moment of change, from ‘girlhood’ into ‘womanhood’. It represents the mystical moment of loss of virginity’ (Cruise 172; my italics). The red embroidery with the white lily motif in Rossetti’s paintings (still in the make in The Girlhood, yet fully completed in the Annunciation scene) encodes this tension of purity and loss of virginity in a red-and-white dichotomy. The same colours reverberate in Wilde’s poem: The pure surface of the girl’s exquisite white skin contrasts with her red lips that represent her sexual appetite. The drawn-in lip even may signal a degenerate woman (see Bullen 206). As in ‘Le Panneau’, the speaker is also fascinated by the purple veins underneath the white skin; in terms of poetic rhetoric, one may read this feature as the titillating danger of the animal underneath the layer of tropes and rhetoric heaved upon the woman’s body (cf. Dijkstra 237). While metatrope is employed as a distancing device, colour underscores this metatrope by means of the central distribution of white and red as a contrastive pair with regard to their moral implications of chastity and erotic desire.

 

The colours thus endow the spiritual image of Wilde’s Madonna-like girl with a sensuality that borrows from representations of the fallen woman or the femme fatale. Massive dark or auburn hair, pale skin, shaded eyes and sensual red lips were characteristic of the ideal female type of Pre-Raphaelite painters. Although decried by contemporaries